Outer Islands Trip

After the symposium, I joined 5 other folks for a 5 day trip with Living Adventure. I knew that Tony, a friend whom I had met at a kayaking class the previous summer, was going on the trip. He had also been at the symposium. Coincidentally, one of his friends, Bob, had also signed up for the trip, and was at the symposium with us. We met the last two trip members, Amy and Sue, the morning of the trip. Our guide was Brian, who had paddled around Lake Superior the previous summer.

Loading up the gear was a little more interesting than usual because we ended up taking only one tandem. We had to make some adjustments, including swapping out the two burner stove that they normally bring for two camp stoves. The first couple days I paddled with the cooking pots between my feet, but by the third day we had eaten enough food to make packing up much easier.

Our first day's paddle was to Oak Island, with our campsite being at Oak 4, two thirds of the way up the western side of the island. This was my first trip in June, and the mosquitoes that had been non-existent on my previous trips in mid-August were most definitely present. And mosquitoes do like me. I gradually gave up my disinclination to use nasty chemicals (I had initially hoped that a bug shirt with a hood might fend off the bugs, but such was not the case.) I considered staying in my tent each morning until the mosquitoes were gone, but decided that was not a sound strategy.

Day 2 we headed off to Rocky via Otter. We paddled around the north end of Oak and had time to investigate the rock formation on the northeast corner that I had only seen from a distance on a previous trip.

Fog rolled in before we started our crossing to Otter, and we started out with a compass heading. Our group had two deck mounted compasses and a hand held compass between us. It was eerie paddling through the fog. At one point we heard a boat's engine, and waited until we could see it.

There was a beam wind, and my learning on this crossing was that navigating by compass is not a good time to try to compensate for the wind without using your skeg, at least for me. Too many back and forth course corrections. Next time I'll use the skeg from the beginning.

The fog lifted half way across the channel, and we could see that we would have hit Otter, but our course was slightly off, so it was nice to be able to see where we were going once again.

After lunch on Otter and then paddling on to our campsite on Rocky, Tony tried a roll in the bay (way too cold for rolling practice), and then I paddled up the bay to see what was there. Rocky is one of the islands with private homes remaining, and north of the dock, the shoreline scenery changed from wilderness to lake homes/cabins and all of their accoutrements -- outbuildings, swingsets, gardens, boats, etc..

Day 3 we paddled to Devils, around it to see the caves on the north end (way cool! never get bored with them), had lunch at the dock, then headed back to Rocky. From Rocky, we island hopped to South Twin, then Ironwood, and finally crossed to our campsite on Cat. In my "island count", we added South Twin legitimately as we stopped for a break. We didn't stop on Ironwood, but I did touch it with my paddle.

It was interesting noticing the sounds of the islands on this trip. Different shorelines have different sounds … the gurgles of smaller caves, the deeper slaps and glugs and booms of larger caves. The hissing of waves on a sand beach. Sometimes the most noticeable sound is the sigh of wind through the trees.

On Cat, the campsite in the trees was brand new and still somewhat under construction. The mosquitoes were fierce, and we ended up carrying our dinner down to the sand spit. It was probably the nicest dinner I've had in the Apostles. There was a powerful awareness of being in an archipelago as we watched the setting sun and the many islands surrounding us as the sky slowly darkened. Several pairs of loons called across the water.

Day 4 we headed to Outer, where we stopped for lunch. An old fishing tug, the Faithful, had been scuttled on the sandspit in the fifties and the wooden hull remained, half buried in the sand.

After lunch, we crossed to Stockton and paddled along the same shore as on the Stockton tour at the symposium, though this time the sun was out.

Day 5 we headed back to LAI. We paddled around the south end of Stockton and stopped for an early lunch, then crossed to Hermit. No stop there, as there is a young bear who has learned to associate kayakers with food. Apparently he surprised some kayakers and they threw food at him in hopes that he would go away. (Bad idea!). Brian had had a run in with the bear on an earlier trip, and we paused off shore at the beach and he narrated the tale, pointing out exactly where all of the exciting moments occurred.

Arriving at Living Adventure, we learned that Michael Jackson, Farrah Fawcett, and Ed McMahon had died while we were on the trip.

Inland Sea Symposium

The Inland Sea Symposium was special for me. Yes, I'm going to 4 symposia this summer, but the ISS is the one I heard about first, before I even knew what a kayak symposium was or that there was more than one symposium out there. I'd been checking their website all winter, waiting for the information about this year's event to appear. I may not have been the first person to register, but I was pretty darn early.

Friday morning was tour day. I had opted for the Stockton Island paddling trip. Bob was doing the Stockton hiking trip. Tony was off to York and Raspberry, while Chuck (whom I had met at the Windy City symposium) was off to Sand. I was envious of another trip with Nigel and Joe Ko, that was a dash out to Devils. However, I didn't see how I could justify calling myself an Advanced paddler, which was the requirement for the trip.

We Stockton Islanders loaded our kayaks on top of the boat that would take us to Stockton, then headed out. Looking behind us, we could see that the fog had rolled in across the Sand, York/Raspberry, and Devils tours by mid morning and was heading our way. Our tour was an island circumnavigation, so the fog was not an issue for us, but the other trips had one or more island crossings, so it appeared that they would have an opportunity to work on their ded reckoning and/or GPS skills.

Upon arriving on Stockton Island, the group of 6 advanced paddlers took off right away, as did the 5 people who had opted for the hiking trip. That left the 35 odd intermediate paddlers to get ready to head out. Of course, the bigger the group, the longer everything takes. We split into pods, and I was fortunate enough to join the fast pod. We promptly moved out to the front of the main group once we were underway and were able to experience a small group paddle vs. a massive group paddle.

We headed off around the island counter clockwise, rounding Presque Isle Point, then crossing Julian Bay. We looked for the wreck of the Noque Bay, which was supposed to be marked by a buoy. We saw neither the wreck nor the buoy. A project for a calmer day. http://www.wisconsinshipwrecks.org/explore_noquebay_intro.cfm

We stopped for lunch in a cozy bay with a big sea stack and pretty much filled the beach with our kayaks. After lunch, we continued on, passing more sea caves and sea stacks. Our pod was granted special dispensation to head out ahead of the group. By the time we needed to turn around, the fog had arrived. We kept the island in sight off our starboard bow as we returned. There were some interesting waves coming from the port side as we rounded some of the points, but it was generally an easy paddle and definitely a fun trip.

In the evening, I met Chan and his wife. Chan has been working with my brother Michael on the CODC building (another story altogether), and lives in Washburn. We walked from their house to dinner and the keynote speech that Nigel Dennis gave about his circumnavigation of South Georgia Island. Interesting trip to hear about, but I must admit that I've taken South Georgia off my fantasy wishlist of places to paddle. Something about having to fend off large agressive male seals in mating season with your kayak paddles, to say nothing about the frigid temperatures and high winds made me think there might be better places to dream about. At a weather class the next day the instructor provided guidelines for skills levels needed for paddling in various wind speeds, and the winds they encountered in South Georgia were in the "Crazy Brits" category.

The next morning I had signed up for a rolling class. For some reason, an 8:00 AM rolling class in Lake Superior didn't draw a lot of students. In fact, I ended up being the only one there. I worked with Pete for about an hour, and dramatically improved my roll. I can now find my setup position even if I don't start the roll already set up, and can try a second time if I miss it the first time. I learned to let myself settle before trying to roll up, and I also learned a nice trick of finishing the roll with a little sculling brace if needed. Still lots of work to do, but it's getting better.

Sunday morning was the making of the 350. 350 parts per million is the safe upper limit for carbon dioxide in the atmosphere. Unfortunately, we have already passed that limit. The goal of the "350.org" organization is to inspire the world to take action about global warming, and one of the ways they do this is encouraging ways to publicize the 350 target. So the symposium took on making a giant 350 on the water with kayaks. The organizing folks set some anchors and laid out (recycled) nylon webbing, and marshaled and cajoled 153 kayaks into position. Then an airplane flew overhead and took some pictures. Turned out pretty well: http://www.inlandsea.org/

All in all, a great weekend.

Windy City Symposium

The Windy City Symposium was the first of 4 symposia I planned to go to over the summer, in Chicago IL, Washburn WI, Door County MI, and Grand Marais MI. Way too much driving, way too much carbon contribution, but the options to improve one's kayaking skills are few and far between, so you go where the opportunities are.

Windy City had almost been canceled due to low enrollment, but when all was said and done, they ended up offering all the classes I was most interested in, so I went ahead with the trip east.

The symposium started Friday morning, and I arrived at the Illinois Beach State Park campground Thursday evening. After setting up my tent, I went for a walk to unwind and spotted a brightly lit commercial building which I initially took to be the conference center that was located nearby, and later discovered that it was a retired nuclear plant. Odd, to say the least, to be camping near the foot of a nuclear power plant, retired or not. Down at the beach, I looked across the water in the haze, and it seemed as if the far side of the lake was just a couple miles away, but that was just an illusion. To the south the lights of Chicago lit up the sky. During the night, sounds of boats, trains, airplanes and highways drifted across the campground, making it an oasis in the midst of a very large urban area.

Friday was a day of forward strokes and boat control. We worked with Ben Lawry and Pete Tibenski in the morning, and added Pete Jones in the afternoon. I found that I was ever so slowly starting to get the torso rotation thing that they had been trying to explain at the IDW, as well as getting a somewhat more solid lean. Our first exercise was getting our legs out of our cockpits and pivoting around our boats, and the capsizes commenced almost immediately (I was fortunate enough to stay upright for this exercise).

Saturday was the BCU 3 Star training day. The BCU is the British Canoe Union, and they have 5 levels, denoted by stars. I had hopes and dreams of earning a 3 star award the next day. We spent Saturday working on towing and other skills in fairly rough water (2-3 foot seas).

Sunday morning we worked on rescue scenarios. Pete (the coach from Wales) had been the main instructor on Saturday, and was part of the instructor team on Sunday. When the plan was that we would work on towing again, he offered to work on bracing with me. We started with low braces, and I immediately noticed that his brace was relaxed and not rushed at all, while mine was a jerky slap. Unfortunately, before I got much farther I capsized (again, we were in 2-3 foot waves). After we got me back in my boat, we headed in to shore and Pete pulled my boat up on the sand and dug a hole that shaped the path the paddle was supposed to follow, and had me do my low brace into the hole and back out. Nice learning aid that he thought up on the spot.

At that point, I was pretty sure that I wasn't ready to do the BCU 3 Star assessment, and after our lunch break I headed up to tell the instructor that I was not going to participate. However, it appeared that there was only one other student, and you need 2 to run an assessment. So I decided to go ahead … that I would learn something no matter what, and it would be worth it to let the other student proceed. At the last minute the 3rd student showed up.

About half an hour into the assessment, the instructor said that none of us were ready for the assessment and offered us options: proceed with the assessment, switch to a training format, or hang it up. We opted to switch to a training format, and had a chance to learn some stuff in the wind and waves.

When the class ended, we packed up our boats and I headed home. I drove for a couple hours then stopped at a hotel for the night. I was one tired puppy, but I had learned lots and made several new friends. All in all, it was a great weekend.

Back to the Apostles over Labor Day

On Friday morning, just a week after my first Apostle Islands trip, I had the wild and crazy idea of going back again this summer. I looked at the LAI schedule and saw that they had a 5 day/4 night trip over Labor Day that would head to Outer Island. Purely as a matter of curiosity, I sent an email off to find out whether there were any spaces left. (This was a bit like saying "Could I just look at the dessert tray?" I hadn't jumped in, but I was definitely sidling up to the water…)

The prompt reply came back that the 5 day trip had been cancelled, but that there was a 4 day trip with one space available over the same weekend.

I thought about it for the next day. The weather was supposed to be good, and I had really, really enjoyed the first trip. I was nicely in shape and ready to go. On the other hand, going back just two weeks later seemed extravagant. I had a long list of projects and tasks that needed doing. And most importantly, I wondered if a second trip could possibly be as wonderful as the first.

But as my brother pointed out, we usually regret the things we don't do, not the things we do, so the next day I called to sign up for the Labor Day trip. At that time, the planned itinerary was Oak, Otter, and Stockton. Not my first choices, as I had already been to two of those islands, but on the other hand, the Apostles are a place to return to over and over. As I registered I put in a plug for getting to Devils, and then spent the next week managing my eagerness to be under way.

Day 1
Labor Day weekend finally arrived. Everything about getting ready and getting up to Bayfield was much easier the second time around. I pulled into Bayfield on Thursday night with time to spare to listen to Obama's acceptance speech. The next morning, I felt like a regular at the Egg Toss café when I showed up for breakfast.

I headed off to LAI and was the first one from our trip to arrive. (Did I mention that I was pretty excited about this trip?) Met our guide, Joe Ko, who was the guide that Tom and Colin had on their trip in June. Also met the other participants as they arrived … a couple from Minneapolis who were avid outdoors folks and 3 young men from the Philadelphia area, where I had lived for many years. The three had been friends since middle school and high school, and had read about the Apostles in a National Geographic article a few years ago, and had decided they had to come. Marina and Adam (from Minneapolis) had been on a trip with Hovas (the guide from my previous trip), so there were lots of connections between us all from the beginning.

I was delighted to hear that our itinerary had changed since I had registered. Due to the fact that the Outer Island trip had been canceled and its campsites were available, Joe had cherry picked the best sites from those available for the two trips. We would now be going to Sand, then Devils, then back to York.

We packed up our gear (took me about a tenth of the time it had the first time), then headed off in the van to Little Sand Bay. We took the boats out to practice our wet exits, came back for lunch, loaded all of our gear, and were off.

We headed straight across to Sand Island, then paddled up the east side, Made a brief visit to the caves, though we would have a longer visit the next morning. Paddled around the lighthouse on the northeast corner, then around into Lighthouse Bay which faced north. Our campsite was on the west edge of the half moon bay. This may be my favorite campsite of all I've been to so far in the Apostles. The bay is much like the bay on York, although there is definitely a sense of being on a bigger island (on York, you can hear the waves on the shore of the far side of the island…) There's only one campsite on the bay, and there was only one sailboat anchored in the bay overnight, so it had a quieter feel to it. Joe, Adam and Marina and I pitched our tents right on the beach, while the other folks camped in the campsite in the trees.

As the sun set, we enjoyed the quintessential northern view of dark pine trees along the shore silhouetted against the darkening sky. The previous trip had been over a full moon. This time, two weeks later, there was no moon up, and we were treated to a sky full of stars that slowly appeared, starting in the east and then overhead and in the west as the sky darkened. I sat out each night of the trip and watched the sky before going to bed. No mosquitoes, perfect temperature. Saw one shooting star, and of course the Milky Way. From Sand, we could see lights of towns on the North Shore in the far distance.

In the morning, I got up early and walked to the east end of the beach and partway up the trail to the lighthouse. Turned around in time to get back for breakfast.

Day 2
On the second day we paddled back past the lighthouse, where we paused for a trip member to make a cell phone call in one of the few places in the islands with reception. Adam the polar bear went swimming. Back underway, we saw a pair of eagles, one immature, in a tree. We made another visit to the Swallow Point sea caves, and then crossed over to York. We had lunch on the beach there, then headed for Bear, saying hello to Raspberry as we passed it.

It was about 6 miles to Bear. When we got there we wanted to stop to get out and stretch our legs, but the west side of Bear proved to have limited landing sites. Most of the shore was steep bluffs, with rocky shores. As the bluffs slowly erode from the wind and waves, tall trees lose their footings and topple down the cliffs and into the lake.

We eventually found a spot where we could land, and enjoyed a break before heading on. The northern part of Bear has some thickly bedded sandstone, and while there were no caves big enough to paddle into, there were arches and massive slabs of rock that had fallen every which way, some on land, some which we could see in the shallow water.















From the northern edge of Bear we crossed over to Devils, where we landed in the small harbor. There was only one campsite up in the woods (ours), but there were several yachts moored in the harbor. We did a bit of good natured grumbling about the music coming from the yachts, but they quieted down before dark.

After setting up camp and having another splendid dinner cooked by chef Joe, we hiked up the trail to the north end of the island to look up at the lighthouse and down at the sea caves we would visit the next day. The friendly volunteer lighthouse keeper came down and chatted with us for a few minutes. He quickly put the kibosh on any thoughts of cliff jumping when Adam innocently asked a question about it.

We listened to a couple of owls call as we settled in for the night, and heard a loon in the morning.

Day 3
In the morning, we set off up the east side of Devils. There are sea caves all along the shore of the northern end of the island. From a paddler's point of view, it looks like there was a wedge of sandstone shoved over the northern end. As you paddle north, you start seeing a wider and wider band of sandstone emerging from the water. In some places, you can see a gray layer of sandstone over a reddish layer, representing two geological formations with very different characteristics. The gray sandstone is thickly layered; the red is finely grained and thinly layered. The intricate sea caves are carved into the red sandstone by the erosion of wind and waves and ice. During our visit the wind was calm, and we were able to paddle into and through the many of the caves. In one, all of us were able to gather with room to spare to listen to Joe's talk about geology.

Around Devils and back to the south end, we picked up our trip member who had chosen to skip the circumnavigation. Then it was back to Bear. We landed on a stone ledge where we had lunch, then headed on to York. A headwind picked up soon after we left Bear, and we definitely earned our dinner during the crossing through waves up to 3 feet high.

York was becoming fairly familiar by now (my third visit). While Joe started dinner, Adam and I practiced self rescues. After dark, we could see the red light from the Devils Island lighthouse flashing in the distance. There was another group of paddlers at the next campsite. They did a night paddle around the island and we saw them come back. Something to look forward to for another trip, after one knows the islands better.

Day 4
In the morning, Joe gave us a short lesson on J leans and braces after breakfast, then we headed back to the mainland and Little Sand Bay. Boats were unpacked, rinsed out, and loaded on the trailer. We had lunch at a picnic table at Living Adventure, then headed home.

And while the second trip was very different from the first, it was just as wonderful. Hopefully there are many more visits to come.

Addendum: I am officially hooked on the sport now, and have gotten a kayak of my own.

Apostle Islands Day 4: Sand Island and Home

Sunday morning I watched the sky lighten from my tent and the sun rise. We got up early to break camp, and in the sand we saw the tracks of deer that had come down to the water during the night. Fortunately, though, no bear tracks.

Our morning plan was to paddle to Sand, see the sea caves, and then land on Justice Bay and have breakfast. We headed off, once again into a wind, once again getting bounced around a bit by the waves until we got into Sand's wind shadow.

A geologist is probably going to cringe at what I'm about to write, but here goes. The Apostles are made up of and shaped by 3 different forces. Sand and gravel laid down by ancient rivers a billion years ago has turned into sandstone. The glaciers that last receded 10,000 years ago carved the northern part of the continent over millennia and left behind the glacial till that makes up most of the surface of the islands, including the hills and bluffs. And the waves and ice and wind and rain and plants continually carve and erode and collapse and construct what remains.

A billion years ago, when the sandstone was laid down, life on earth did not include land plants.

There are a few places in the Apostles where the sandstone emerges and can be found on the surface. Where the sandstone lies at the edge of an island (most spectacularly on Sand, Devils, and a stretch of mainland), sea caves have formed as the waves and ice cut into that ancient rock, and many of the caves are large enough to paddle through. Having read about these caves before the trip, I was really looking forward to seeing them. I wanted to paddle through them and listen to the sound of the waves gurgling and slapping and echoing against the walls and rocks. To look out into the bright sunlight, surrounded by rock that had once been sand deposited on a river bottom a billion years ago. To look up at ripple marks on the ceilings that captured a moment of time on a long gone river. To wonder at the patterns of light and dark rock laid down by those rivers.

A bit of luck is required to get a close look at the caves, as you don't want to be in them with an onshore wind, but we were in the lee of the island, and I was delighted that we had the chance to see them.

After paddling through the caves, we headed around the corner to Justice Bay, landed, and had breakfast. The coffee was welcome, to say nothing of the world's most stick-to-your-ribs helping of oatmeal. We hiked to the Sand Island light house, walking through woods of silver birch, cyprus, and other trees. Along the way, we saw a couple of bald eagles soaring off the northern point of the island.

After returning to our kayaks, we launched to cross to Little Sand Bay back on the mainland. This time the wind was blowing across our beam, creating a different rhythm to paddle in than the headwinds we had previously faced. It picked up as we left Sand's wind shadow, and once again we got tossed around a bit more than one is used to paddling on Lake Calhoun, but the previous 3 days had sharpened our skills, and we were comfortable and confident in the waves.

We landed on the mainland, cleaned out our kayaks, and carried the boats and our gear up to the parking lot. Our guide had a conversation with a couple of folks who wanted to take their recreational sit on top kayaks out to "Sandy Island". She convinced them that this would be a really bad idea in the rough water, and persuaded them to head to the eastern side of the Bayfield peninsula, which was sheltered from the day's winds.

The Living Adventure trailer pulled up, and we and our boats and gear returned to our starting point. We unpacked, showered at the Rec Center in Bayfield, and re-grouped at Maggie's Restaurant for lunch. And then it was time to split up and head home.

Driving back to Minneapolis, missing the group I had bonded with for the last 4 days, I found the details and demands of my "normal" life slowly popping up and re-asserting their claims on my attention. Where a few days ago I could lose myself in the wonder of a bay on Rocky Island, I now found myself juggling what I had to deal with the next day and what could be postponed. Where I had been able to simply watch an eagle fly, or listen to a loon, or watch the waves as my kayak climbed over and through them, or revel in the joy of having been able to paddle for 4 days with ease, now I was remembering details I had left behind and putting them back into place.

But the Apostles will be there when I return. In the meantime, I've added the beaches on Rocky and York, the dock on Oak, and the sea caves on Sand to the places I take out and hold in my memory. I wonder if anyone is doing a night paddle in the Apostles tonight, and what direction the wind is coming from. I remember the lighthouses flashing in the dark, and I imagine the sun coming up on another group's kayaks. I wonder what the sea caves look like in winter, and what the bears and the eagles and the loons do when the people are gone. There are special places all over the world, but this one has touched my heart, and I will return.

Apostle Islands Day 3: To Sand?

Overnight, the hissing and sighing of the waves on the sandy beach was replaced by the rush of wind blowing through the trees. In the morning, there was a high wind and weather passing by to the north and south. Although a more experienced group could have handled the wind, our decision was made for us – we weren't going anywhere until the wind eased up.

We went for walks and took pictures, We played cards … killer and spoons. Hovas let me try her boat, a Greenland kayak. We watched one of the sail boaters launch a small skiff with an outboard motor. We couldn't figure out why he kept zooming up and down the shore, but then we saw his dog running up and down the beach with him. Guess that's one way to exercise your dog. We were visited by a lone Canada goose who seemed to want to befriend us. We listened to the weather forecast on the radio (several times) and watched a storm pass over Bayfield to the south. I enjoyed just being there, on that island, with our group, on that day.

In the late afternoon the wind eased off. We quickly made and ate dinner, packed up, and started off to Sand about 6:30 PM. We stopped at Bear Island for a short break, then paddled on. We were traveling west into the setting sun, with the full moon rising behind us and Jupiter high in the eastern sky behind our left shoulders. First a yacht, then the schooner Zeto sailed across our path in front of the sun as it sank towards the horizon. To the south we could see heat lightning over the mainland. Shortly after the sun set, we passed Raspberry Island, and looked back at the lighthouse on its western shore flashing in the night.

Approaching York, we all put on our headlamps. It was wonderful to be in a group of 5 kayaks moving together in the dark, with the paddles steadily rising and falling, pushing on ever closer to York. Eventually the Sand Island light house came into view behind the far side of York. I thought I heard the call of a loon from across the water, though it could have been a gull.

There was some speculation that someone was pulling the island away from us as we approached it, but eventually we reached York. We were running out of gas and decided not to press on to Sand. We headed into the half moon bay, and a couple of kayakers who were camped on the beach apparently saw our headlamps bobbing in the waves and wondered what the heck we were. They were kind enough to shine a light at us, which helped guide us in.

It felt good to step out of our boats after the long paddle. Our campsite reservation was on Sand, so on York we ended up camping right on the beach. We built a small charcoal fire and made smores. Looking out from the bay, we could see the Devils Island light house flashing every 10 seconds about 8 miles to the northeast. I hadn't expected to see any lighthouses at night, based on our original itinerary, so seeing three in one night was quite a treat.

Apostle Islands Day 2: On to Rocky

After our breakfast of eggs and fruit (and more pesto tortillas), we headed up the western shore of Oak, rounded the northwest corner, and landed on a beach for a short break before heading off to Otter. We saw a juvenile bald eagle (all gray) and then a mature one with its distinctive white head perched in a tree, and then as I walked up the beach, another eagle launched out of a tree right above my head and flew powerfully off.

The crossing to Otter was a fun and playful paddle in the light air. Near shore we could look 20 to 30 feet down, sometimes at underwater boulder fields, other times at sand with ripple patterns from the waves. Our guide instigated a squirt gun fight with our bilge pumps.

On Otter, we pulled into the beach, swam (briefly – the water was chilly, though not as cold as it was between the islands), and had lunch, then continued on to Rocky, where we landed on another beach. Dinner was burritos (with pesto tortillas, of course). (We had barely made a dent yet in our tortilla supply at this point, and were trying to give them away to other campers. They were perfectly fine tortillas -- it's just that there were about 60 of them, and 7 of us, and we found a half tortilla per meal to be ample. At that rate, we had a lot of tortillas to go.)

There was no bear box to store our food on Rocky, so we had to hang our food and other smelly items like toothpaste in a tree. "Where food lockers are not provided, hang the food cache in a tree away from the tent and at least 12 feet from the ground and five feet from the trunk." Doesn't sound hard, does it? Well, it didn't help that we had way too much food (Living Adventure made sure we and several of our closest friends weren't going to go hungry). We looped together all the dry bags containing food and toiletries, and with half of us pushing up the unwieldy bundle and half of us pulling the rope, we hoisted away. It didn't help that the only likely tree we could find was barely big enough to hold the weight. We nearly snapped it in two before we got the food up. It didn't help that we had somehow left the fruit bag hanging down 4 feet below the rest of the bags, and when we got the rest of the stash up into the tree, the fruit was swinging slowly back and forth at a prefect height for a hungry bear. It definitely didn't help when half of us collapsed in laughter, or when Sally started taking pictures. But we persevered, and while we wouldn't have gotten an A on our result, our food cache was technically hanging from a tree, if nowhere near 12 feet up. In the morning, it was still there, unscathed and uneaten.

There were 3 sailboats moored in the bay that night. They all had lights on at the top of their masts after dark, and as we looked across to other islands at night throughout the trip we could clusters of mast lights atop boats anchored in the bays and on lee shores.

That night we had a discussion about what to do the next day. Our next night's campsite permit was on Sand, several islands away. We could either go straight there (13 miles) or go there via the sea caves on Devils Island (20 miles). We didn't make a final decision, but agreed to get up early the next morning and see how the weather was.